Sunday, 26 October 2014

Fall Break in St.Petersburg

Windows

 

Looking in, looking out, I saw beauty everywhere. 












Inside the Hermitage

Inside the Hermitage

outside the puppet theatre








Fall Break in St.Petersburg


The City

     St.Petersburg is beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. It was founded in 1703 when Peter the Great decided to move the Russian capital there, and chose to base the layout and the architecture on European cities he had spent time in. The city straddles the Neva River, and is criss-crossed by canals. It has the feel of may European imperial cities I have visited, with huge stately public buildings that were once palaces, and gracious parks that were once private backyards. 

 

I saw a lot of wedding photos being taken while I was in St.Petersburg. 









The Singer Building. The bottom floor is a huge book store. 

Nevsky Prospect, a busy commercial street





Kazan Cathedral


St.Isaac's Cathedral

A meat store and a pet store side by side. Hmmm...



I thought it was funny to see Mr.Bean in a Russian park. 


Tauride Gardens



Smolny Cathedral

     Of course, St.Petersburg has a very different history from most European cities. Those gorgeous old buildings and parks were once desecrated and left to ruin by the Soviets. In the decades after perestroika, a lot of money has been poured into restoring these places to their former glory, some private, and some government funding. 






The Summer Garden


At the end of the canal you can see the fantastic Church on the Spilled Blood.


The view from the breakfast room at my hotel. 

Palace Square (facing the Hermitage)


Thursday, 23 October 2014

Fall Break in St.Petersburg

Going to Russia



My visit to the Russia begins with the preparations, namely the quest for a Russian visa. I had naively thought that obtaining a Russian visa would be about the same as getting a visa for any other country. No. I spoke with a colleague who has visited Russian on several occasions, and luckily, she helped me out enormously. Before I could even take my passport to the Russian embassy, I needed; an invitation, proof of insurance, proof of residence in Uzbekistan. I booked my hotel, and paid an additional $20 for an ‘invitation.’ I printed this invitation in colour. I photocopied my lease agreement with my Uzbek landlord, and had the school secretary write a letter on school letterhead, complete with official rubber stamp, that confirmed that I work in Uzbekistan. I photocopied my insurance card. I then had to go online and fill in a two-page visa application form. I had to provide details of ALL of my education, ALL of my jobs, and EVERY country I have visited in the last 10 years (with dates). 

I gathered all of these documents, and a photocopy of my hotel reservation and my plane ticket, and set off to the Russian embassy one fine Wednesday morning. You can only drop off visa applications between 10 and 12. When I arrived at the embassy (you have to go to the back of the building), there was a mob scene. Luckily, my friend Kathryn had told me exactly which door to approach and how. (the door to the left, waving my passport and repeating ‘visa, visa, visa’). The guards politely indicated that I had to wait until 10 (I had arrived early). I planted myself firmly at the edge of the gate, and on the stroke of 10, advanced again. I had to leave my phone on a shelf outside. Again, Kathryn had forewarned me that I couldn’t take a purse in, so I had all of my documents, and bundles of soum in a transparent plastic document envelope. I went through the door and came into a small entryway. The gentleman behind the window looked at my passport and application form, and gave me another form to fill out. The form was in Russian, but between the two of us, I figured out where I was supposed to put my name and date of birth. 

This gentleman then gave me back my passport and application form and buzzed me through the second door. At this point I was in a courtyard with more ‘windows,’ and another door on the other side. I went through the door and entered another hallway. I tried the door on the left, and found the photocopier storage room. I tried the door on the right, and found a hall with more windows. I got into the first line, but eventually realized that window number 3 was for visas. There was a curtain drawn across this window, but I stood there anyway, because it did say ‘visas.’ Eventually a line formed behind me. 

Finally a young Russian woman opened the curtains, and pulled my documents through to her side of the window. She looked at everything very carefully and slowly. She looked from my passport photo to me and back again. Even though that picture is horrific, she was satisfied that is was me. She gave me another application form to fill in. When this was done, I handed everything back to her. After another five minutes of document perusal, and paper clipping and stamping, she put my passport and documentation in a plastic sleeve, gave the package back to me, and indicated that I now had to proceed to the cashier. 

Through another door, and down another dingy hallway, and I came to the window marked ‘cashier.’ I put my little package in the tray under the window. The window was completely opaque, so I couldn’t tell if there was anyone there or not. The tray disappeared behind the window, so evidently there was someone there. Then a voice came over the little intercom: ‘money.’ I replied ‘how much.’ A little slip of paper with an amount was slid to me. I dug out 151,000 soum (about $50), and slid it through.  A few minutes later, a receipt was passed to me, with the date and time when I could pick up my passport (two weeks later, after 3PM). 

I was relieved that the process had been far less stressful than I had imagined. I made my way towards the exit. Huh. I passed through the first courtyard, and was confronted by two doors. I hesitated and looked back at the crowd waiting in the courtyard (to be seen by who knows what official). They indicated the door on the right. It was locked. There was another intercom thing. I buzzed it and heard very faint Russian. I pushed and pulled on the door. Nothing. I buzzed it again. The people in the courtyard were shouting directions at me. In Russian. I felt profoundly stupid, and a little panicky. Finally someone came and opened the door for me. I exited the embassy, retrieved my phone from the shelf (I made sure it was mine by checking the text messages), and I was off. 



My Russian adventure was one step closer when I retrieved my passport from the Russian embassy. I had been a bit nervous without my passport for two weeks, as we are always told to have our passport with us at all times. I have had my passport checked a few times when entering the Metro, so for two weeks I kept close to home. 

I am a little frightened by how adept I have become at circumventing lines. I arrived at the embassy at 3PM on a Wednesday afternoon. I had a slip of paper with the date, and 3PM, written on it. When I arrived at the embassy, there was already a rowdy queue. I rushed up to the soldier at the head of the line and waved my piece of paper at him. “Three, three, three!” I yelled in Russian. I just shrugged at their answer and indicated that I was a stupid foreigner. He finally gave in and let me through. I rushed to the visa window, picked up my passport, and I was back at school within the hour.