Travelling Cat Lady: 2019

Exploring the island (and scaring myself witless in the process)

I spent a few days exploring the island using vastly different modes of transportation; tuk-tuk, dugout canoe, and riding an ATV. I discovered a new favourite artist (and bought an incredible painting); I discovered that Malagasy coffee is to die for; I swam in the Indian Ocean; I discovered that the concept of a 'road' is very different in Madagascar than it is in Canada.

Just in case anyone ever accuses me of speciesism, I also adore dogs, and most of them adore me back (except for that one time in the Bahamas.....)

This beautiful lady now lives in my apartment in Istanbul. I was in a tuk tuk on my way into town when I saw a sign that said 'atelier d'artiste.' I asked the tuk tuk driver to pull over and wait for a few minutes. When I entered the artist's tiny home, I was greeted by a room full of beautiful paintings. Then I turned my head and saw this on the easel. It wasn't quite finished. The artist told me it was 'La Joconde.' Right away I saw it, the slight smile, the pose of the hands. The background, which was the unfinished part, is the Travellers' Tree, the tree of Madagascar. I was in love. I asked him when it would be finished. He said Thursday. I was leaving Saturday. The deal was struck. I came back on Friday and she was mine. The artist's name is Fabrice. He is self-taught, and has no interest in changing his circumstances. He lives in a very tiny structure with his wife and two children. Half of the structure is his studio. The other half (the size of a very small bedroom) is their living space. He is happy. He lives near the sea and he paints.

The Travellers' Tree

Once upon a time, Ile Sainte Marie was a base for pirates. You can visit the 'pirate cemetery' (there are people other than pirates buried there, and a little island where they set up a well for fresh water, and maybe buried treasure...

So Pirate X murdered Pirate Z. Then Pirate X paid for this tombstone with a happy face to be placed on Pirate Z's grave. That's what you call adding insult to injury.

Another day, I drove an ATV northeast on the island. I had to have a guide for this part, and it soon became obvious why. My guide was a lovely young man who rode ahead of me on a motorbike while I thundered along on the quad. I had been hesitant to do this tour because I don't like being that noisy and obtrusive. After we left Ambodifotatra, the main town on the island, however, the quad, for me anyway, was essential.

I wouldn't even call what I was travelling on a road. It was a mud track that was one pothole after another. At one point, I was on an angle in the road, stuck in the mud. I was afraid to go forward anymore, in case I tipped over. My brother-in-law has broken ribs by tipping ATVs over, so that was worrying. The guide was ahead of me. He stopped his bike to check my progress, and realized that I was stuck. He left his bike, walked back to me, and helped me off the quad. I walked gingerly along the edge of the mud hole while he drove the atv out. This happened a few times on our way to the coast.

This is actually a small farming industry. They are cultivating sea grass for the Chinese market.

We stopped at a vanilla farm. Vanilla in Madagascar is propagated by hand.

Jack fruit. This is also found in South East Asia.

After a quad ride, a dugout canoe ride, and a walk through the bush, we made it to the Indian Ocean!

When we left the beach, we went for a lovely, QUIET, canoe trip through the mangroves. It was magical.

After the canoe ride, my guide said, 'I have a proposal. The road back is even worse than the road here. If it is okay with you, someone else will drive my bike, and I will drive the quad with you. When we get back onto the good road, you can drive your atv yourself again. The man driving my bike will walk back to his village.' I agreed, feeling a bit badly for the poor guy who was going to have to walk home. Thank goodness I agreed. I couldn't possibly have handled the atv for the next part of the journey. I was pretty much clinging to the guide for the entire time.

When we got back onto the pavement, and I was in charge of the atv again, it started to pour. We took shelter for a few minutes under a tree, then set off. When we got back to Ambodifotatra, I requested that we stop for another delicious cup of Malagasy coffee.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped to see this gorgeous waterfall.

Back at the hotel, I had an incredible spa experience. First I soaked in a tub filled with hot water and flowers. A woman came and scrubbed my back, then another woman delivered a piece of chocolate cake and a glass of champagne WHILE I was in the bathtub! Then I was escorted to another room where I was scrubbed with honey and ground up pickles and hosed off. Then I was escorted to another room where I was treated to a massage by two women.

For the last part of my Madagascar adventure, I flew to Ile Sainte Marie, off the east coast of the country. My primary reason for going there is because humpbacked whales congregate in the waters around the island in July, August, and September in order to give birth and start raising their babies. I stayed at an INCREDIBLE place called the Princesse Bora Resort. I had my own little bungalow, including a friendly cat and dog that visited me (not simultaneously).

Upon arrival at the airport, 2 other guests of the resort and I were met with a zebu cart. I was pretty uncomfortable being pulled by animals, so I opted to walk instead. It was not a long walk, so it wasn't actually that heroic. ..

After throwing my bags in my bungalow, I raced to the dive centre to find out about whale watching and snorkelling. The lovely woman behind the counter said I could out set right then for a snorkelling adventure. Apparently they were expecting some rough weather, so it was a good idea to take the opportunity when it presented itself. So I did!

Herman was my boat pilot, guide, and general good guy that day, and for the rest of my stay at |Princesse Bora. On another occasion when I went snorkelling from the beach, he casually hung around at the shore to be sure that I emerged.

Here's an embarrassing story. I dove off the boat to snorkel that first day. But when I was ready to get back into the boat, I couldn't do it! A combination of very high steep sides on the boat, and my appalling lack of upper body strength turned it into an impossible task. So poor Herman had to toss me a life ring, and TOW me to shore!!!!!!!! I have now acquired weights and work out every evening.

The weather that whole week was a bit windy and rainy, which affects the visibility underwater.

The shore that Herman towed me to was on Ile aux Nattes. Ile aux Nattes is just next to Ile Sainte Marie. It is inhabited, but has no electricity, and no motor traffic. Idyllic.

Aldobra Fody. I spotted this beauty in the centre of a tree at the edge of the water. I spent about 15 minutes wading through the water, stalking him for a picture. According to my bird book, he doesn't belong in this part of the country.