Old Friends

 

Once upon a time there was a girl named Vanna. She grew up in the Cambodian countryside, and moved to the big city of Phnom Penh to make a new life. She became a teacher's assistant at an international school. Once upon a time there was a boy named Ben. He grew up in a small town in England. He became a teacher, and taught in a few different countries, until he took a job at an international school in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Vanna made friends with a new teacher from Canada. Vanna was kind to this teacher and helped her when she found a kitten on the street. Ben made friends with the same teacher. They explored Cambodia together and had great conversations and lots of laughs. Ben had talked with Vanna briefly once, and was interested in getting to know her better, but he was a little shy. He knew that his friend Donna was friends with Vanna, and asked her if she thought Vanna would like to get to know him. Donna asked Vanna, and Vanna said 'sure.' Next thing you know.....

Ben and Vanna's decision to stitch their lives together involved a lot more than dancing and pretty clothes. They made dozens of visits to different ministries to complete the paperwork necessary. They had their first 'wedding' in Bangkok. Then the official traditional wedding in Takeo. 

Eventually, I left Cambodia to pursue a teacher's degree in Canada. Ben and Vanna lived in China for a year, then made the move to England. Once a year, Ben and Vanna come back to Cambodia to visit her family. This year, I happened to be in Phnom Penh when they arrived. Ben and Vanna stayed with me for two nights in PP, then we all went to Takeo to visit Vanna's family. But first, Vanna's Mom, uncle, sisters, brother-in-law,  and nephew all came to PP. We spent a few glorious hours in the fancy new Aeon Mall that is near my apartment. Vanna's uncle rode an escalator for the first time. The family came to inspect my apartment and its gorgeous views. Taking the elevator to the 26th floor was another first for Vanna's uncle. Then we all piled into a mini-van hired for the occasion and make the trip back to Takeo. On the way we stopped at a bakery and Vanna bought out their supply of bread to take to her village. 

Phnom Penh has changed a lot since I was here last, but so has the countryside. Traditional Cambodian houses in the countryside are built of wood. The sleeping quarters are on an upper floor reached by stairs. Often animals shelter on the ground floor under the house. Many of these traditional houses have been replaced by brick structures, and the animals relegated to shelters behind the houses. Vanna's family has made such a change. The original house is now the barn for the cattle. 

Vanna's Mom and I have both changed a lot since the wedding, but she still insists that I consider her my Cambodian mother. 

This little sweetie is now a university student in Phnom Penh. 

Vanna's family's new house. 

Upon my arrival at the Pom household, I had a tour of the farm. 

The family was a little concerned when I kept saying I wanted to pet the pigs. They finally relented, and next thing you know....

On Saturday morning, I was sitting in front of the house, sipping my first cup of coffee, when I saw - BIRDS! I ran and grabbed my camera, and started snapping away, much to the amusement of Vanna's family. I later identified the birds as streaked weavers. 

Vanna and I went for a walk in the searing heat. Neither one of us lasted long.

As with all good things, my time in the countryside had to come to an end. I needed to come back to PP to look after my precious Sammy. The man who was supposed to bring me back to PP, and who had been paid to do so, announced that it wasn't worth his while, so Vanna's brother-in-law took time out of his workday to drive me. We had a wonderful conversation on the way using google translate. 

The Spiral of Life

 

I can't believe it has been two years since I have posted on this blog! I have changed continents again, and now I'm calling Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, my home. I lived here from 2008-2010, so I have been pretty excited to see how the city has changed. 

About two weeks after I moved to Cambodia in 2008, I encountered a tiny black kitten who was in danger. I grabbed her, took her to school, and at the end of the day, back to my apartment. When she survived the weekend, I named her 'Samnang,' which is Khmer for 'Lucky.' I mostly call her Sammy now, and she is still with me, bossing me around and filling my heart with love. 

A week ago, Sammy and I boarded a Korean Air flight for Seoul, and connected there for a flight to Phnom Penh. As usual, Sammy was a much better traveller than me. I am NOT a glamorous traveller. My body HATES travelling. I am, in fact, the poster child for the pain and suffering that a traveller endures. This particular journey was made worse by the fact that I set out with a miserable head and chest cold (yes, I took a covid test to be sure). 

After a few days of rest to recuperate, I have begun to explore the city a bit. I have been quite disoriented, because the city has changed so much. It seems that all of my old haunts have disappeared. Hopefully with time I will discover new haunts that I will love as much. 

The first day when I was out walking, a man passed me on a motorbike. Actually, he was doing a u-turn in front of me. He was performing this maneuver using only his right hand, because he was holding a tiny baby in his left. I felt like I had never left. 

Mural at Factory Phnom Penh

One new space I was anxious to check out is Factory Phnom Penh. It is an optimistic complex based in an old Levis factory in the south of PP. Work began on it in 2017. There are IT and Art work spaces, small retail shops, little coffee shops, art galleries. Throughout the complex you can admire astonishing murals by local artists. There is a plan to incorporate condos as well. 

I had breakfast (an egg pancake and coffee with condensed milk) at a little restaurant, and was captivated by the rules as illustrated above.