Samarkand

Samarkand

Cities are fascinating because they always seem to carry physical traces of centuries of change.  Samarkand was an important city on the ‘Silk Road’ for centuries before it was destroyed by Genghis Khan in 1220. One hundred and sixteen years later, a new, fierce warrior was born in Shakhrisabz, south of Samarkand. This was Amir Temur, who would go on to conquer regions as far as Turkey. Amir Temur decided to make Samarkand his capital. He used his plundered riches to turn Samarkand into a beautiful showcase of a city. 

 

Statue of Amir Temur

Although his son moved the capital to Herat, his grandson Ulugbek, who is revered as a scholar, returned to Samarkand and once again it became a centre of intellectualism and artistic endeavour. 

The Registan is an incredible complex. It consists of three medressas built over a span of 200 years (1420-1660). Registan means 'sandy place' in Tajik. This area would have been the spiritual and commercial centre of the city.

In the 16^th century, the Shaybanids held the reins of power in the region, and their capital was established at Buhkara. Samarkand went into decline. Under the Soviets, Samarkand was once again declared the capital of the new Uzbek SSR. This only lasted six years, and then Tashkent became the capital. 

In the 21^st century, Samarkand has seen even more changes. The Uzbek government decided to make the city more aesthetically pleasing to visitors. Around the Registan, and other important sites, entire streets were bulldozed, and a wide, pristine avenue stretches north from the Registan to the Siob Bazaar. Neighbourhoods (mahallahs) in the vicinity of the major sites actually have big walls around them.

When I first arrived in Samarkand, I was actually disappointed. Bukhara has maintained so much of its character, but Samarkand’s character seems to have been bulldozed away in the spirit of modernity. I actually went to the train station to try to change my ticket back to Tashkent, to leave earlier. The trains were full, so I had to return to my original plans. 

On my second day in Samarkand, I returned to the Registan and the other major sites, but I also made an effort to go behind the walls, and see the real mahallahs. I’m so glad I did. I had a lovely conversation with two little girls on their way to school, and with an elderly gentleman having his morning tea. Two little boys blew their whistles at me and bellowed ‘HELLO!’ I got completely lost once, and had to ask for help from a gorgeous young woman with a thick braid to her waist, and a mouthful of gold teeth. She gave me directions, but I’m pretty sure we were speaking two different languages (me in Russian, her in Tajik), but her hand signals got me to where I wanted to go. 

And yes, I went shopping. I bought an incredible silk rug, and a very pretty suzani (embroidered piece to go on the wall or a table). 

Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum

Gur-E-Amir Mausoleum

Gur-E-Amir Mausoleom

the little shop by my hotel

The Old Jewish Quarter

A lot of old soviet buildings have these fantastic murals. This one is especially beautiful. 

Halwa at the Siob Bazaar

Nigora negotiating the price of raisins. Nigora was hilarious to watch at the bazaar. She tasted EVERYTHING. I have to admit, though, that when I buy produce at my local market now, I'm aware that many, many hands have touched it.

'beautiful bread' at the Siob Bazaar

Bibi-Khanym Mosque. Women used to crawl until this stone in the hopes of getting pregnant. It is roped off now. 

Bibi-Khanym Mosque.

Bibi-Khanym Mosque

Bibi-Khanym Mosque

Registan

Registan

Registan

On our way to Shah-I-Zinda, a mausoleum complex that centres around the tomb of a cousin of Muhammed who is said to have brought Islam to the region in the 7th century. 

a modern cemetery is attached to Shah-I-Zinda.