Sunday, 14 July 2019

MADAGASCAR PART THREE - STILL IN THE HIGHLANDS



Parc National de l'Isalo

Isalo National Park is quite large, 314 square miles. It was established in 1962, two years after Madagascar gained independence from the French. The gateway town is Ranohira. The landscape here is fabulous, formed by wind and water erosion. It looks as though it has had much more violent beginnings, with massive rock formations strewn about, and deep-cut canyons. 


I stayed for three nights at an amazing place called Relais de la Reine, about a 15 minute drive from Ranohira. They have an equestrian centre, so I opted to go for a horse ride one day. The guide asked about my experience with horses. I said I had experience falling off horses, and he immediately went and found a helmet for me. Anyone who knows me knows that I adore all animals, and most of them adore me right back. But they do NOT respect me. I obviously don't give off any kind of master-vibe. This lovely horse, Pixel, quickly realized that he had a powderpuff trying to control him. He moved at his own pace, nibbling here and there, and when asked to cross a tiny stream, promptly changed direction and started off the way we had come...




My room at Relais de la Reine, to the right.



This lovely tranquil spot is on the grounds of Relais de la Reine.




Ramohira in the distance after a long drive from Ambavalo





Upon our arrival near the Relais de la Reine, Solomon and Hube took me 'La Fenetre,' to see the sunset. 



La Fenetre






























The guide who accompanied me on my visit to the park is named 'Roxy.' He is astonishingly intelligent. He speaks Malagasy, French, & English. He learned French and English by listening to songs and television. He has an incredible breadth of knowledge about the natural world of Isalo. When I asked him how he learned everything, he said, 'from books.'


Elephant foot


Aloe



Golden Orb Web Spider


Stick insect. He is the bottom-most part that is in focus. He is upside-down. If you look VERY closely, you can see his four legs clinging to the branch above. 



A seventeenth-century tomb. The people of  this area have a complex burial ritual. They bury their dead in caves, and a few years later, retrieve the bones, and have a second burial ceremony. 

Keel-winged rainbow grasshopper. 

Love birds

Hoopoe









These are pied crows. Kites like to hide their kills in small holes in the sides of the canyons. A flock of pied crows will harass the kite until he flies away from the stash. 










the poor flustered kite





Ring-tailed lemurs

Scop's Owl, hidden very high up in a palm tree. It took the guide quite a while to help me spot him. 

Bulbul

Roxy took me on a slightly terrifying walk along the canyon's bottom. Much of the time I was scrambling over wet rocks and cut stairs, clinging to the damp canyon side. 





lantern bugs. Strangely, I have seen the same bugs in Borneo!


Male Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher


Female Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher


Madagascar Turtle Dove having a drink

Rock Thrush enjoying a tasty snack

My first Sifaka! Roxy told me that she stayed behind when her troop moved on a few years ago. Now she hangs out with the ring-tailed lemurs. 






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